This sestiere, or district, in the southwest of the city, has a double character. The area between the former Customs House (Dogana) and San Trovaso is an elegant neighborhood, rich with museums and art galleries, including the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. However, around campo San Barnaba, the university area begins and is marked by bustling street life and many small cafes, bars, and restaurants.
Campo Santa Margherita is a particularly colorful square where students and shoppers meet, and mothers bring their children to play. From there we make our way to San Nicolo dei Mendicoli, almost at the western end of the city, once the small parish church of sailors and fishermen and their families.
We then proceed to San Sebastian, a church of the 16th century, decorated by Paolo Veronese with frescoes and with paintings of brilliant colors. Moving on to San Trovaso, we take a look at one of the last gondola-yards in Venice and then reach the Zattere promenade at the Canale della Giudecca. Frequented by Venetians, especially on warm late spring and summer evenings, this is an ideal stop for a gelato.
From there, we walk to the majestic Salute church, with its evocative Greek Madonna altarpiece and magnificent marble floor. Standing on its steps, we enjoy one of the most beautiful views of San Marco and the lagoon.